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Your Complete Guide to Pool Care
Congratulations, you now own a pool!
Your dream has become a reality, and you’re the owner of a sparkling oasis of pleasure and relaxation in your back garden, ready for hours of fun, exercise and enjoyment!
But what now?
- How do I keep the pool looking new?
- How do I know it is safe for my family to use?
Continue reading and understand everything from routine maintenance along with helpful tips such as the importance of pool cover rollers..
There is advice out there on the internet and from pool shops, but this literature can be misleading or confusing, so I thought I would put together the following simple guide.
This is not designed to be a technical manual; it is a DIY guide to understanding a pool and maintaining your pool with basic troubleshooting. The information I have given is my personal opinion and may differ from other professionals, but if you follow my advice, it should all be easy to understand and give you excellent results and the perfect pool! So sit back, relax and read on.
There are three main types of in-ground pools.
These are:
- Gunite/Concrete
- Vinyl Liner
- One Piece Vinyl-Ester or Fibreglass Pools
- Most Spas (Hot Tubs) are Acrylic
Above ground pools are mostly made of corrugated steel outer walls with a top and bottom track, and, in the last few years, wooden sided pools with a vinyl liner have also become very popular.
Gunite is the method of construction widely used in commercial swimming pools. Also, it is an ideal method for free form or specially-shaped pools. It is relatively quick but involves using specialist equipment.
Water, sand, grit and cement is mixed then shot through a high-pressure hose with an adjustable nozzle onto a reinforced steel frame set inside the excavated hole. Usually, wood shuttering is used to form the outer wall to save excess concrete being used. The thickness of a gunite pool varies from 200mm (8) to 300mm (12). The pool fittings are positioned in a steel cage, and the concrete is sprayed around them.
It requires a very skilled operative to spray the product onto the steel; the spray is to wet the mix with slop onto the ground, spray to dry it just crumbles without setting. Once the shell has set, the floor is screeded, and the walls are rendered with waterproof cement. A tanking solution is then applied, then normally finished with either mosaic tiles or a coloured render can be applied.
A more common construction method, especially for domestic pools, is using the concrete block method. The pool hole is firstly excavated approximately 300mm (12) deeper than required, and a steel-reinforced mesh cage is made to cover the floor on top of washed stone. Starter bars are then placed to accurately come up inside the cavities.
The floor (steel mesh) is completely covered by pre-mixed concrete, and, once dry, concrete blocks would be laid to form an inner and outer wall on either side of the steel starter re-enforcing bars. The gap (cavity) will normally be 100mm (4) to 150mm (6). All the pool fittings are built-in as the walls go up. Once set, pre-mixed concrete and more steel are poured into the cavity.
Again, coping stones are set on the top of the pool wall, the floor is screeded. The walls rendered, a tanking solution is applied, then the finish coat of coloured render or, more popular, mosaic tiles.
By far, the most popular type of pool now is what is known as a Liner Pool. They started in the early 1970s, and over the years, the vinyl has become thicker, stronger, and more resistant to UV and chemicals. From the mid-1980s came the commercial AKLOR Lining System, welded on-site. This was a great solution for giving commercial pools a new life.
The least expensive method of building a vinyl liner pool was the Vi-Con (vinyl & concrete) pool. The outer walls are built of concrete block laid flat, and the wall rendered the floor screeded, then a domestic vinyl vacuum fitted to the inside. Through the mid-1970s to mid-1980s, over 10,000 vi-con pools were built each year.
In the mid 1970s, fibreglass panels were used to form the outer walls as they were more flexible and easier to install than the concrete, and it is also more suitable to our UK ground conditions. The panels can accommodate ground movement and freezing without cracking like the old-style blocks.
In the 1990s, fibreglass was replaced by structural polymer injected plastic panels. They were stronger, easier to install and, as they are made from oil, their life expectancy in the ground was longer than the other options available and will outlast a concrete block.
Once the outer frame of panels is set, concrete is poured around the back for strength. The floor is then covered with a screed, all the fittings and any steps are bolted to the wall sections and sealed in place. The vinyl liner is then vacuum fitted to ensure a snug fit.
Vinyl makes for a long life with ease of cleaning as the smooth vinyl liner stops algae from getting a hold. This type of pool is used by pool professionals and also popular as a DIY build.
In the mid-1970s, one-piece fibreglass pools started being imported from Australia, South Africa and Europe. Limited only by the road delivery and access into your garden, this was a quick and inexpensive way to achieve your new dream pool. Over the years, new technology has improved the structure, and now the better one-piece pools have a multi-layer of vinyl-ester and fibreglass for extra strength.
All you need to do is simply dig the hole, lay a base of sand or screed, lower your one-piece pool into the hole, backfill and away you go. Ideal as a DIY solution, just check you have the required access!
Above ground pools started in the UK in the early 1970s, coming in mainly from Australia, Cranleigh Clark, and then from the USA. They were steel walls with top, and bottom metal channel and a thin vinyl liner hung from the top rail. Water was filled to around 150mm (6) from the top, and this water pressure kept the walls up. They were inexpensive and a great introduction to a back garden pool.
Over the years above, ground metal wall pools have become more sophisticated with strong top rails, thicker liners, and now installed below ground, backfilled with lean mixed concrete! They look great with decking and give an inexpensive facility in your garden.
In the 1990s, less expensive flexible walled splasher type pools started being imported from China and the Far East. These pools started from under 100.00 and made spontaneous purchases on those hot summer days.
In early 2001, we first started seeing wooden pools made of interlocking wood sections. These pools were not only beautiful to look at but easy to install, with the vinyl internal lining and a wide top rail you can sit on. These pools brought pool ownership with affordability for most people.
Popular now, wooden pools are made here in the UK by Plastica in Hastings and imported through Certikin and SCP, finished with wood decking which can also make a very attractive asset to any garden.
The spa, as we know it today, is the evolution of what was the Hot Tub. The old barrel that the Scandinavians cut in half and filled with hot water has evolved into the most amazing acrylic spas, with hundreds of massaging jets, air bubbling from the seats like Mount Vesuvius, colour changing underwater LED lights, waterfalls, mobile docking or interrogated stations for radio/CD.
They are now a must for the removal of stress in our everyday lives. Starting at around 3,000.00, they are both affordable and great fun with larger swim spas, generally 4 or 5 metres long and costing from 10,000.00; they are an affordable luxury.
Every pool owner wants to achieve crystal clear and sparkling water. The following pages explain, in simple terms, how a pool works and what you need to do to obtain and keep that crystal clear water.
The principle, for hundreds of years, has been cleaning our drinking water by straining it through sand. The same principle is used in pools only we force the water through the sand or, more commonly used, glass media.
The pool or spa is a closed water system which means the water stays within the pool tank and associated pipework. Therefore, it is not subject to outside forces other than when you top up with fresh water or with rainfall.
The pool water is simply sucked from the pool tank by the pool circulation pump via the skimmer (the top water inlet). The circulation pump is responsible for the circulation of the pool water through the system. The pump should be correctly sized for the pool/filter dimensions.
The first part of the pump is a coarse strainer basket. Ensure that the filter pump is switched OFF and the valves in front of the pump are closed. Also, set the multiport valve to close. The basket can then be accessed by undoing two wing nuts, or lid clamping device, or simply unscrewing the lid. The basket can then be removed and emptied.
When replacing the lid make certain that the gasket and lid are thoroughly cleaned and that the gasket is correctly positioned before replacing the lid and tightening to form an airtight fit. This should only be hand tight and a little smear of petroleum jelly will help you get a good seal. Then reset the multiport valve to the filter, open the valves in front of the pump and only then can you turn the pump back on.
After using a skim-vac adapter and vacuuming through the skimmer basket, the coarse strainer will require inspection. However, when vacuuming through a vacuum point, all the debris will be trapped in the pump coarse strainer which will have to be cleaned after and maybe even during the pool vacuum.
The purpose of the coarse strainer is to prevent any debris from entering the pump and causing damage to the impeller. If the strainer basket becomes damaged at all it should be replaced immediately.
The purpose of the skimmer is to allow just the very top of the pool water to flow in via a floating weir, and then any floating debris will get left in the skimmer basket ready for weekly emptying.
Water is also drawn through the sump or low suction fittings. The flow valves control the flow from the skimmer to the sump so you can adjust it and obtain the optimum suction for your pool.
The pump’s impeller spins causing a small vacuum. This slowly, providing the pipework is watertight, sucks the water from the pool into the pump pre strainer basket via flow control valves. Once the water has passed the impeller, the water is then under pressure and pushed from the pump to the filter’s multiport valve.
The multiport valve now has 6 positions. The filter position is the position where the valve handle is set most of the time. The water flows into the valve and will then follow through into the top of the filter, being forced down through the media. This process will leave small particles of dirt and debris in the media.
Once the water has been cleaned it will pass through small slots in the pipes at the bottom of the filter called laterals. The water passes back into the multiport valve then through the pipework and back on to the rest of the system.
This valve controls all water movement through the filter.
- Filter: Water travels from the pool through the top pipe and into the filter, it then goes down through the sand and out from the lower pipe of the filter and back to the pool
- Waste: The water comes from the pool and goes straight to the drain, bypassing the filterClosed: Water will not pass through the valve
- Backwash: The water travels from the pool into the lower pipe and up through the sand and out through the top pipe, off to waste (this cleans the sand)
- Re-circulate: The water comes from the pool,bypasses the filter and returns to the pool
- Rinse: The water travels from the pool through the top pipe and down through the sand, it will then come out of the bottom pipe and off to waste (This washes the last of the dirt out of the sand after backwash)
N.B. Always switch off the pump when moving the multiport valve.
The filter removes partlcles of dust and debris that are suspended in the water. For private pools during the bathing season, it is necessary to pass the contents of the pool through the filter at least twice every day.
As the water temperature rises and bathing increases, so does the necessity of running the filter for longer periods. Once the pool is up to temperature it is recommended that the filter is run for at least 12 hours every day, or enough to achieve two complete water turnovers.
It is strongly recommended that a time clock is fitted to the pump, which will ensure that this essential period of daily filtration becomes automatic.
The pool must always be crystal clear for safety reasons if the water becomes dull or cloudy and the pool chemistry is correct, then the filter should be run 24 hours per day until sparkling clarity is regained.
A high wind or bathing party will introduce an excess of debris into the pool and the pool water can go cloudy overnight. Continuous filtration with the possible use of a flocculent will quickly restore the clarity of the water.
Because the filter takes out fine particles from the water it will become partially blocked after some time. Located on the filter is a pressure gauge. The pressure will rise as the filter becomes dirty, this will indicate when backwashing should be carried out.
Note the pressure when the filter has been backwashed and the media is clean, this is called the clean running pressure. When the pressure has risen by 5lb per square inch (PSI) above the clean running pressure, the water flow around the pool will be considerably reduced and the filter should be backwashed (see notes later).
Regardless of pressure, the filter should be backwashed at least once a week. You may find the filter starts to leak from around the top due to excess pressure.
Periodical chemical cleaning of the filter, using a proprietary filter cleaner is desirable for optimum performance. For cartridge and diatomaceous earth filters, the procedures are different and the manufacturer’s instruction must be adhered to. The filter sand should be changed every 4/5 years to ensure effective filtering.
Pool heaters, whether heat pump, gas, electric or oil, are fitted with a thermostat to keep the pool at a controlled temperature. Solar panels are controlled by a differential temperature control to activate the system whenever solar heat is available for collection.
Heaters rarely give trouble, but these units require regular servicing and winterisation in the autumn to keep them in good condition and prevent possible issues with freezing.
Pool Temperature
Temperature is very much a matter of personal preference, however, in liner pools, the recommended maximum temperature is 85F or 30C for the new superliner and 82F or 28C for the standard 30 Gauge liners.
Overheating tiled pools can also be a concern, if the pool overheats the tiles have no room to expand and can pop off.
With all heaters, the following listed troubles are not causes of heater failure, if you are currently dealing with this issue we recommend contacting a service engineer.
Electric Heaters
These heaters are usually on an economy electrical supply (economy 7) operated by a time clock. (A power cut may alter the time the unit switches on). Check and reset the time if necessary.
If the filter requires backwashing, only a small volume of water may pass through the heater and the built-in safety device will trip the excess temperature switch. To restore the safety device, backwash the filter and reset the temperature switch.
The heater will not operate if the thermostat is set at a lower temperature than the pool water.
The pH level is very important with electric heaters so always regularly check and keep the pH level at 7.4.
Gas Heaters
If the filter requires backwashing, insufficient water passes through the heater and the safety pressure switch will not operate. Backwash the filter.
The pilot light has blown out. Relight pilot.
New gas boilers are fitted with gas pressure switches so always ensure you have sufficient pressure before fitting a gas boiler.
Always have your gas boiler annually serviced by a qualified engineer. This ensures your boiler is always performing correctly.
Oil Heaters
- Check the oil level in the tank. This seems obvious, but many calls are due to no oil.
- Check the temperature controller.
- Check the reset button on the burner.
Always have your oil boiler regularly serviced by a qualified engineer. This ensures that your boiler runs as efficiently as possible.
Heat Exchanger
- Check that the boiler supplying heat is operating.
- Check the secondary circulation pump is operating.
The pH level is also very important. High pH can cause scale to form in the heat exchanger and reduce the flow.
Heat Pump
Clean the air intake at regular intervals and always make sure that nothing is restricting the air outlet to ensure maximum airflow through the heat pump.
If there is insufficient water flow through the heat pump it will cycle on and off. The filter should be backwashed and the pump strainer and skimmer baskets cleaned.
If the unit is short of gas it will fail to operate and it may trip the high or low-pressure switch. Contact a heat pump specialist and he will service the unit and re-balance the gas pressure.
Solar Heating:
An adequate flow of pool water through the solar panels is necessary to ensure efficient operation. If the surface of the panel is not cool to the touch when operating in bright sunshine, this indicates inadequate flow, and the cause should be identified.
No regular maintenance is required, except that if dirt accumulates on the panels, this should be washed off.
Check the solar control device.
This should include the following:
Dust and debris will blow into the pool, sink to the bottom and lie on the pool floor. This can be removed with a pool vacuum or automatic pool cleaner.
New pool owners may experience a little trouble in operating the vacuum for the first time. The following technique is suggested:
1. Fill the pool with water until it reaches just under the skimmer faceplate.
2. Check there are no holes in the vacuum hose or it will not work.
3. Put the pool vacuum head on the telescopic pole and with the hose attached lower it into the pool. This should be close to the skimmer/vacuum position. Stretch the remaining hose along the pool surround to ensure you have enough length.
4. Turn the pump off. Close all suction valves except the vacuum point or skimmer that you will be using. Open the backwash/waste valve if one is fitted.
5. Turn the multiport valve to waste. Then turn the pump on.
6. Feed the hose down into the water steadily, which will fill the hose up with water and remove the trapped air through the open end above the water level. Using a hose without priming will take longer as it will air-lock out the pump.
7. Fit the end of the hose into the skimmer or onto the special skim vac plate that fits over the skimmer basket. If there is no skim vac plate available, remove the skimmer basket and place the hose in the suction hole at the base of the skimmer. Alternatively, if the vacuuming is carried out from a vacuum point, attach the hose directly to this point via a hose to the wall connector.
8. The vacuum will now operate, give the pump about a minute to clear any air left in the hose. Do not take the vacuum head out of the water, as this will cause the pump to lose prime. The vacuum head should be slowly pushed across the floor and slopes. If pushed too fast it will stir up the dirt and suspend it.
9. When you have finished cleaning the pool turn the pump off, select rinse on the multiport valve, disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum point or skimmer and slowly remove the vacuum head from the pool allowing it to drain as you lift it out.
10. Check the skimmer basket and empty it if you have vacuumed through the skimmer with a vac skim plate. Check the pump strainer basket and empty. Replace and secure the pump lid. Switch on the pump, run for 10-20 seconds to clear any debris. Switch the pump off, select filter on the multiport valve. Then switch the pump on.
If the Pool Vacuum Stops Operating
- If you are using a vac plate adapter, the basket in the skimmer may be blocked up with leaves or debris.
- A large leaf, or similar, sucked over the opening on the pool vacuum head (I remember once finding a golf ball stopping the flow) will simply need to be removed to start again.
- Leaves or debris blocking up the hose. If the pool is very dirty then net out the leaves first as it is quicker than using the vacuum.
- The basket in the coarse strainer in front of the pump may be blocked, especially if vacuuming through a vac point, empty and continue.
- The pump may have become un-primed through sucking in too much air. This can happen quite easily during start-up if all the air has not been removed from the hose.
N.B. Empty Skimmer Baskets and Strainer Basket as described earlier.
The process for filter backwashing is as follows, however, please make sure that heating is always switched off before backwashing.
You will also need to switch off any automated equipment like UV systems as the water will no longer be passing through.
1. Depress lever on multiport and turn to the backwash position. Open backwash/waste valve (if fitted).
2. Switch on the pump and run for approximately 2 or 3 minutes. The dirty water will be passing through the sight glass on the multiport, which will gradually clear when the filter is clean. If you are using the new glass filter media you can reduce this time by 50% as it releases the debris from the media faster.
3. Switch off Move multiport lever to Rinse position.
4. Switch on pump and run for 20/30 seconds switch off
5. Return multiport lever to Filter position. Switch on pump to re-commence filtration.
6. Close the backwash/waste valve (if fitted).
N.B. Test and Treat pool as described under Chemical Treatment.
Your pool will give you many years of trouble-free service if the following points are remembered:
- Check and correct pH and disinfectant/sanitiser levels regularly as per the manufacturers recommendations.
- Be careful when adding chemicals, especially in large doses. It is advised to dissolve pool chemicals in cold water and add them as a liquid since un-dissolved chemicals can damage the pool finish. Never add chemicals to the pool with bathers in the water.
- Get into a weekly routine. This will save you time in the long run and help you get the best from your pool and its equipment. Check the filter pressure and backwash.
- Check the pump coarse strainer basket.
- Empty the surface skimmer basket.
- If there are trees close to the pool then checking and emptying will have to be done more often, especially at leaf or blossom falling times, and then vacuum the pool.
- Leaves must not be allowed to lie on the pool floor for prolonged periods as they can cause staining to most types of pool finishes.
- The pool water level should be filled to just over halfway up the skimmer mouth, except if you are going to vacuum the pool, in which case, it should be at the top of the skimmer mouth, or, where winterising has been undertaken when the level will be lower.
- On a liner wedge or hopper pool with steep sides, do not encourage standing on slopes. In hot water a pool liner is pliable, and feet can cause a wrinkle.
- Any dirt accumulation around the water line can be removed with a specially formulated tile and liner cleaner. Regular use of tile and liner cleaner will give the best results (do not use household cleaners, strong acid, wire wool or a wire brush as they will damage the finish) use a soft sponge or clean cloth.
The recommended chemical treatment for a particular pool may vary according to the nature of the mains water used. If you are unsure then please contact us and we will be more than happy to advise you.
The minimum you will need is a test kit that measures pH and chlorine or bromine.
There are two basic needs in pool water treatment:
1. Control of pH
2. Maintenance of disinfectant/sanitiser residual
These both need to be right to have balanced pool water.
pH
pH is the expression used to indicate the degree of acidity or alkalinity of water. The scale used for reading pH is 0 to 14, with the middle point at 7.0, below which the water is acidic and above which is alkaline.
The recommended range of pH in swimming pool water is between 7.2 and 7.6 (ideally held at 7.4). This is the most suitable for several reasons.
Where the pool water falls below pH 7.2 there is a risk of corrosion of metals and the pool finishes. Above pH 7.8 some disinfectants/sanitisers are not so effective. (At 7.2 Chlorine is 66% effective and at 7.8 it is 22% effective.) You can get a high level of disinfectant/sanitiser and still have algae growing. There also will be problems of scaling due to the precipitation of calcium salts from water.
The pH is adjusted to the ideal range of 7.2-7.6 by the use of acid (pH-) when the pH rises above 7.8, and alkali (pH+) when pH falls below 7.2. Regular additions of pH correction chemicals, to maintain the ideal pH, will protect the pool, its equipment and the swimmers.
Sanitisation
Although your pool may look crystal clear, if left untreated it will become a breeding ground for bacteria and algae.
Disinfection/sanitisation is the process of killing or removing as many of the micro-organisms as rapidly as possible to minimise the risk of infection to swimmers. It is a prime requirement of swimming pool disinfection/sanitisation that an adequate residual is maintained in the water at all times.
There are many disinfectants/sanitisers available for swimming pool treatment. The main ones are chlorine or bromine but there are others, and we are happy to discuss the merits of other systems with you.
You need a good test kit; this will test for chlorine or bromine and pH.
Keep it in its box away from sunlight or it will fade the colours.
You should buy new test tablets at the beginning of every season and keep them in a dry place.
It may be necessary to control alkalinity and calcium hardness to ensure good water balance.
The ideal value for chlorine is:
- Outdoor Pool: 3-5 ppm
- Indoor Pool: 1-2 ppm
The ideal value for bromine is 3-5 ppm.
Phenol Red tablets test for pH and DPD No. 1 test for chlorine. It is essential when using the tablets that you do not touch them as this may distort the readings.
There are several systems on the market that electronically test disinfection and pH levels of swimming pool water. Some computer-based machines actually dose the required amount of chemicals internally, whilst others can be fitted with feeding devices to draw the chemicals from separate containers. For further information on the different systems please contact us.
We have semi-automatic dosing systems for chlorine or bromine that can be installed very easily. We can also offer a low chlorine system or chlorine reduction systems like UV Systems, Ozone Systems and Salt Systems etc.
Other chemicals that are used include algaecides, which prevent algae growth, and clarifiers/flocculants that help the filter remove very fine particles.
There are several options when it comes to non-chlorine sanitization of your pool water, the most commonly used is an Active Oxygen product.
The Bayrol range of chemicals can be used to sanitize both pools and spas without the use of chlorine or bromine and gives a gentle and less pungent swimming environment.
Active Oxygen works using two separate components, the main disinfectant that oxidizers water contaminants and an algaecide to prevent algae growth. This product is sold as Bayrol Soft & Easy.
A Non-Chlorine Shock can be used in conjunction with the above Active Oxygen, although a Liquid Chlorine Shock is also compatible to use should the pool suffer from heavy algae growth or cloudiness.
For Spa Treatment, again, two products are used together, Bayoklar Spa fast dissolving tablets to disinfect the Spa Water and Bayroplus Spa Liquid to intensify the disinfecting/oxidising for maximum effect.
Non-chlorine products are more expensive than chlorine or bromine so this can put pool owners off using these, although, if sensitive to using chlorine or bromine then this is a great alternative and softer chemical on the skin.
There are several different types of pool covers available which fulfil different functions:
These covers float on the pool surface and do not require fixing, and for easy handling, a pool roller is recommended. These are primarily used to conserve heat by preventing heat loss from evaporation and cold winds.
There are several types, the most popular being the semi-transparent bubble cover, which saves heating costs by giving free solar heat through the cover to increase pool temperature. Floating covers do prevent a lot of debris from entering the pool but need careful handling when removing, or this debris will fall back into the pool. When using a roller, never leave the cover rolled up on the roller without using the solar protection sheet provided by the cover manufacturer or the sun will overheat the outer layer, expanding the bubbles and leading to premature failure.
Strong sunlight will cause the cover to delaminate. (The bubbles will separate from the smooth underside) thus shorten its life. You can now get floating leading edges, which will make getting the cover on and off the pool easier if you are on your own and also prevent damage to the cover by pulling on the corners thus extending the life of the cover.
With the heat savings these covers provide, they soon pay for themselves within a couple of seasons. Solar protection sheets are now available to help prevent overheating of the bubbles while on the rollers.
A winter debris cover, suspended across the pool will keep out the majority of leaves, debris, etc. The cover is made approximately 2 ft. longer and wider than the pool to give the necessary overlap, and it is normally fixed with special fixings that simply slot into holes drilled into the surround paving.
When installed, the cover straps should be re-examined a few days after initial fitting and any slackness found eliminated. These winter covers allow any rain to pass through. Maintained in good condition and firmly anchored, they can be considered to provide a limited degree of safety, however, complete safety should not be expected.
Certain trees have very unpleasant habits during the early spring, willows and poplar for instance, which shed white feather debris, for which the winter debris cover is invaluable. The use of a winter cover reduces the number of chemicals that you will require throughout the winter and some continual netter out of fallen debris.
It is desirable to keep the cover clear of the water at all times except that a snow load will push the cover onto the water where the water will support that extra weight. If your cover becomes locked into ice, leave it alone or you will damage it.
Very popular now in the UK are the Automatic Covers. They give added safety and ease of operation, power-operated lockable covers are available in either fabric or plastic slatted materials; these slatted varieties can be fitted with solar slats so you can get free heat into your pool. Please contact us for further details and prices.
The other advantages of automatic covers are:
- Safety
- Reduces cleaning by 90%
- Reduces chemical requirement by up to 60%
- Eliminates evaporation by 90%
- No need for solar summer cover, roller and winter cover as the automatic cover does all of the above.
Summer
Clean off any debris and allow the cover to dry thoroughly, if you have a roller then store the cover on the roller in a garage or outhouse where there is no danger of frost damage. If you do not have a roller then try and store the cover in a rolled state because, if you fold it, the cover will tend to split along the folds.
Winter
Before storing, remove debris and clean cover, hose off and allow drying before storing in its bag and store away from excess heat and chemicals. Never clean your cover with solvents, as they will cause it to shrink. Get any small holes or damage repaired as soon as it is noticed as this will cost you less than a new cover.
When you decide to stop using your pool for the winter there are various duties to carry out to ensure that the pool and equipment will still be in good condition for the next season.
Our recommended method is to telephone and ask for this service to be carried out by our engineers or your local pool professionals.
If you decide that you want to do this yourself then the following procedures should be carried out:
1. Remove the summer cover, hose off and place out the way to dry off.
2. Remove the ladders and diving board, clean and store in out-building.
3. Turn off the automatic top-up valve if you have one.
4. Vacuum the pool thoroughly and remove any leaves or floating debris.
5. Thoroughly backwash the filter and lower the water level to below the skimmer mouth, the only exception to this rule, being installed in high water tables, where lowering the water level could cause problems. In these circumstances, consult the original builder of the pool.
6. Shock dose the pool with liquid chlorine and add a winter algaecide. Follow the chemical manufacturers instructions. Use the re-circulate facility on your multiport valve to mix the chemicals in the pool without going through the filter.
7. Remove skimmer weir and basket and store with the rest of the pool equipment. Half fill a plastic bottle with an anti-freeze mixture or small stones and place in the skimmer barrel to prevent ice from damaging the skimmer.
8. Store the now dry summer cover away from frost or cover with a winter storage cover.
9. Turn the pump and isolate the electricity. Only leave the electrical supply on if there is a frost stat fitted. Spray electrical equipment with moisture repellent spray.
10. Remove coarse strainer basket and drain plugs from the pump, grease and store with the skimmer basket. Undo the pump unions and ensure that there is no water left in the pump or its pipework. Spray the pump motor with a moisture repellent spray. Preferably store the pump somewhere warm and dry.
11. Remove plug at the bottom of filter tank to drain filter, keep the plug in the pump strainer basket. You may notice water draining from the filter for some hours as it slowly drains from the media.
12. Remove the drain plug from the heater and flush through with fresh water. Keep the plugs in the pump strainer basket. Drain solar panels and associated pipework.
13. Remove centres of gate valves and grease. If you have plastic ball valves then undo the unions and grease the o-rings. You may have a problem here if your equipment is below the water level.
14. Drain automatic top-up.
15. Drain automatic dosing devices. Be sure to dispose of any concentrated chemical safely.
16. Tie a row of weighted plastic containers along the middle of the pool. This is to form a frost break to relieve the pressure of ice on the sides. Formed ice should not be broken, as sharp edges may damage the pool lining. Remember to fill containers with sand or if you are using water then add anti-freeze.
17. Fit the winter debris cover.
Very little attention is required during the winter, as long as the above procedure has been carried out efficiently. The specialist chemicals for winterisation are long-lasting. However, the variance of winter weather and temperature affects the longevity of these products, and occasional testing is recommended.
If we have a particularly mild winter then a check should be made at the beginning of the New Year and then checked monthly until you want to open the pool. It is far easier to keep the pool clean and clear than it is to get it back after algae have started to grow. You may need to lower the water a couple of times throughout the winter months.
Usually, spring sunshine activates pool owners to get their pool clean and sparkling to start the new season.
1. Remove winter cover, clean thoroughly and lay out to dry.
2. Remove the floating containers strung across the pool and the containers in the skimmers. Clean, dry and store away for use at the end of the season.
3. Top up the pool to the top of the skimmer mouth.
4. Remove any debris from the pool with a leaf net.
5. Replace all drain plugs in the heater, filter, pump, etc. Reconnect electricity.
Some difficulties may be expected in priming the pump at the commencement of the season. The following procedure is suggested:
1. Make sure that the pool is full; it is extremely difficult to prime the pump if the pool is only three-quarters full or less.
2. Close all valves in front of the pump.
3. Set the multiport to waste.
4. Remove the top of the coarse strainer and fill to the top with water. Replace the top firmly.
5. Switch on the pump and immediately open one of the valves. After a minute or two, the pump should start pumping and the pressure gauge will rise. If this does not happen within three minutes, switch OFF and go through the procedure again.
6. When the filter is operating satisfactorily with this one valve open, the second valve can be opened very slowly. If the pressure gauge immediately drops to zero, shut off the second valve until the pressure has risen to normal and slowly open again. Continue in this manner until the gauge is constant with both valves fully open.
If the pump will not prime then there is probably an air leak in front of the pump. It could be that the top of the coarse strainer is not sealed correctly, the socket union between the pump and the valves is not fully tightened or that the rubber gasket has not been replaced in the socket union. On older pumps, if priming is difficult there may be a leak between the pump and the pump motor. A worn pump seal will suck air and make priming difficult and should be replaced.
Turn off. Select backwash position on the multiport valve. Turn on filter pump. Run for three minutes to remove any debris. Turn off pump and select filter on the multiport valve. Switch pump on and commence filtration.
Following the winter there will be an accumulation of dust or debris on the pool bottom that requires vacuuming to waste. See section on vacuuming pool.
Check the pH of the water and adjust as necessary.
Commence and follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the disinfection routine. This will usually involve shock dosing the pool with a suitable disinfectant.
If required, switch on pool heating.
Check the fuse. If the motor hums, it may be that the impeller jammed. Turn off the electrical supply and do not attempt to repair any electrical equipment as it should only be carried out by a professional and qualified engineer.
This is usually caused by air being sucked into the system.
- Check that the top of the coarse strainer is clean and a tight fit.
- Check the O ring is in good condition and is securely in place.
- Check that there is sufficient water in the pool.
- Check the pump seal for leakage.Air can only be sucked in before the pump, so check any unions as well before the pump.
- Check that both suction and skimmer valves are open.
- Check that the skimmer and pump strainer basket are clean.
- Check that any valves on the return line are open.Backwash filter and check filter is not blocked with calcium or other deposits.
- Check the eyeball outlet in the pool wall is working and has not spun around partially blocking the flow.
Air is being sucked into the system.
- Check the water level on the pool.
- Check the top of the coarse strainer.
- Check all valves before the pump.
- If these are correct the cause may be faulty joints or gate valve on the suction side of the pump. Bubbles will always be blown into the pool after 5-10 minutes.
Check pH and disinfectant level. Filter continuously until clear using a flocculent if necessary.
This is algae forming. Check pH and disinfectant level and follow chemical manufacturers recommendations for algae treatment. Normally a shock dose followed by flocculent and backwashing brings the water back.
Fortunately, holes and tears can be easily mended when the pool is full of water. Cut a patch slightly larger than the hole, round off the corners and apply the special adhesive to the patch. Place the patch over the hole and press from the middle outwards to expel all water. This patch will adhere firmly and the water pressure will also keep it in place.
Specialist equipment like ultra-sonic leak detection equipment now can simply pinpoint holes or problem areas.
If you are considering replacing your liner, always go for the thickest as it will give you a longer life and be more resilient to damage.
Specialist help is available for repairing concrete pools. Specialist products like high modular mastics and epoxy resins to fix cracks, tile repairs or even the installation of an onsite lining system, which can give your pool a new life.
For the past 25 years, pool enclosures have been available to extend the pool swimming season. The starting price for one of these enclosures is normally around £6,000 so they are now very affordable.
These air type domes were very popular in the 1980s and 1990s. The UV protected clear vinyl is kept up by the running of a fan.
They have zip doors and are available in a water bag and the more common cable tie fixings option.
The starting price is from under £4,000 which makes an air dome a simple and inexpensive option for your pool.
Slides and diving boards have always given that little extra to your pool. Now you can have amazing LED colour changing lighting, installed with a simple handheld remote. All you have to do is press the button and your pool changes into a stunning visual effect like something you would expect to see in a movie star’s home! It is great fun for parties and simple to install, even in your old pool. By changing the light guts you can achieve a new look.
Some pool owners don’t have the room for a large pool, so smaller exercise pools are an option. From just 4 or 5 metres long by 2 or 3 metres wide, you can incorporate a large booster pump system at one end to allow you to gently continue swimming as if you were swimming the English Channel! You can also buy these ready-made as swim spas, or as a one-piece acrylic pool with a wave type booster system at one end.
We hope you have enjoyed reading about swimming pools! If you have any more questions or queries, feel free to get in touch with the team here at 1st Direct Pools. We also have an extensive blog that covers almost everything there is to know about your swimming pool.
